For the first part of the trip, I glassed the bulkheads in and did some work on the side of the starboard hull that was easily accessible. Moving the hull off the forms was the most stressful event of this project so far. I knew it was going to be difficult to get it clear of the forms, but with 9 lifters and a couple tries we did it. I think the boat survived far better than my nerves did.
The rest of the trip to work on the hulls was mostly uneventful. I’ve got the second half of the port hull foamed, sanded and ready for fiberglass.
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This entry was posted on July 5, 2009 at 3:37 pm and is filed under Boat Building Updates, Hulls. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.
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October 3, 2009 at 10:32 am |
Greetings – Congratulations on great work and photos.I have a set of Romany plans, a design I have chosen after much research. Vertical foam stripping of the hull seems the way to go. I’ve got a couple of questions:
1. How did you work out the reverse form for foam stripping
2. What thickness of foam did you use, and how many sheets did you use
October 3, 2009 at 2:13 pm |
Hey Julian,
I had to add the laminate thickness to my forms because the plans are drawn to the inside of the skin. I drew out the points to the same size in the plans, attached a batten to the points, and used a plywood circle with a hole in the middle to guide my pencil the exact laminate thickness away from the original form size. Honestly, if you’ve never built a half female mold before, I wouldn’t recommend starting this method with a hull this size. I never did, and if I had it to do over again, I’d build with Richard’s method of flat panel foam sandwich. You’ll get the hulls done so much faster…just my $.02.
I used 12mm core-cell foam and 2 layers of 400g biax w/epoxy on either side. I think I used about 9 sheets per half hull, so 36 total. I’m considering also building the hull decks in core-cell, but I haven’t decided yet. I’ll be doing that part next season.
Where are you building?